Sister Trip Turned Soul Trip: Patricia’s Morocco Tour with OWR

Patricia had always been drawn to Morocco––she and her sister were planning to go it alone, but the more she researched, the more overwhelming it felt. Then she found OWR.

I have always wanted to go to Morocco. I cannot pinpoint when exactly Morocco came on my radar, maybe it was my teenage Beatles obsession and the lore of the Morocco hippie trail in the 1960’s, maybe it was because of Penny Lane in the film Almost Famous. Regardless of why, my wanderlust was calling me there and I got my sister in on the plan. 

We spent some time plotting the trip and initially we were planning to go it alone like any other vacation we have taken together. But after really looking into Morocco, I honestly felt intimidated to be planning a trip to a place so very foreign to me and not having any references to rely on. We are from the US and no one we know had been, or had even considered going, to Morocco. That is how we found Other Way Round.

“I WAS INITIALLY APPREHENSIVE… BUT STEVE WAS GREAT, REASSURING, AND FRIENDLY”

I initially was apprehensive about going on a group tour. I live in a touristy area, and we get cruise ships. So, I did not have the best feelings about a group tour situation but wanted to explore this company because it seemed more intimate of a travel experience based on the reviews.

We reached out about the Morocco tour and were able to Zoom with Steve to get a feeling from him about his company and the Morocco experience they were providing. Steve was great, reassuring, and friendly. After talking with him, we knew this was how we wanted to see Morocco.

I flew to Casablanca from Rome after a quick visit to see a friend. My sister was getting to Casablanca in the morning. So, there I was, alone in North Africa. I was excited and nervous. It is always such a slog getting through customs and baggage claim, then finding transport to the hotel.

Obviously, Other Way Round could not do anything about the red tape of flying internationally, but they did send a driver to pick me up at the airport. The scene outside the airport was intense and chaotic, but rather than have to navigate it myself there was a guy holding a sign with my name on it. He took my luggage and whisked me away. Perfect beginning.

“THE HOTEL IN CASABLANCA WAS MODERN, AS IS THE CITY ITSELF”

The hotel in Casablanca was modern, as is the city itself. Our group slowly convened at the hotel over the next day, culminating in a welcome dinner with our guide Mustapha. Dinner the first night was delicious, but with everyone tired from travel, the vibe was sedate. It in no way was indicative of the next nine days, when this little group of folks from all over would become the best, liveliest travel companions I could have hoped for.

The next day we were on the road. I think my favorite thing about Morocco was that right from the beginning it was nothing like I expected. In Casablanca, my first meal was sole meuniere, a French fish dish. I learned that most of Morocco, Casablanca especially, has French influence due to the French occupation of Morocco in the early to mid-1900’s.

Our first stop was the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, where our tour guide was a woman. She spoke proudly and passionately about the mosque and their beloved king, Hassan II now deceased, who commissioned it. It is a beautiful place that is welcoming to all for tours outside the times for prayers.

This started my exploration of the Muslim faith while I was in Morocco, which would become one of the most memorable and lasting parts of the trip.

Next stop was Rabat, the capital of Morocco. It is also a modern place and is home to a beautiful seaside medina (the old city) and nice beaches.

We stopped for lunch by the water.

I got tuna pizza, apparently a Moroccan specific way to eat pizza.

I mean, I had to try it. The stray cats at the restaurant were glad I did, as they ended up eating most of the tuna.

“OUR TOUR GUIDE WAS KNOWLEDGEABLE, FRIENDLY, AND KINDLY ANSWERED MY MANY, MANY QUESTIONS”

We left Rabat and went to Volubilis, a site of Roman ruins from the second century AD. As it turns out, a lot of other civilizations have lived in this area, but since Romans tended to build big things out of stone that last for a long time, that is what this area is known for.

A little background about me, I am a huge Roman history nerd. I loved it there. Our tour guide was knowledgeable, friendly, and kindly answered my many, many questions. 

He also informed me that this region was a major source for the Moroccan wine industry. Yes, you read that correctly. The Moroccan wine industry.

Another thing about me, I love wine. I was excited to hear about this.

We ended the day by driving to Fes and eating dinner in a restaurant that had peacocks in the trees and visiting a grocery store for supplies like bottled water and road snacks. It was cool to see regular, suburban Moroccan life.

Our day in Fes was an exploration of traditional Moroccan crafts and how modern Moroccans are keeping that artisanship alive.

We visited a ceramic studio where masters teach apprentices, men and women, how to make the beautiful ceramics and tiles that Morocco is known for. We walked through the artisan districts in the medina, seeing copper workers, leather makers, and fabric dyers at work and selling their wares.

The medina in Fes is like being transported to a different time. I could have spent days wandering and admiring the handiwork, the medina architecture, and public fountains. I would also have probably gotten lost. 

“THE SAHARA DESERT WAS LIKE BEING TRANSPORTED TO A DIFFERENT PLANET”

The medina in Fes is no joke, it is huge, sprawling, and confusing. Without Mustapha to expertly guide us, as well as to share the history of what we were seeing, we would have been overwhelmed and underinformed.

If Fes was like being transported to a different time, the Saraha Desert was like being transported to a different planet.

The dunes really are that orange. The sand was incredibly soft, the sunset was breathtaking, and the camels are surprisingly easy to ride. They and their Berber handlers are clearly professionals. They handled the group and our differing comfort levels being astride a large animal with endless patience. 

Sitting there with my feet in the sand, watching the sunset, I knew I was experiencing something I would never forget. It was surreal and so very real, both at the same time.

We finished the night with our first tagine and a bottle of Moroccan bubbly in a large tent at our desert camp, followed by a Berber musical performance around the fire.

Which may have turned into a drum circle sing along featuring the Beach Boys song Kokomo after another bottle of Moroccan wine. Okay, it definitely did.

“WE HAD THE INCREDIBLE OPPORTUNITY TO VISIT A FAMILY TO HAVE TEA IN THEIR HOME IN A TOWN NEAR THE DESERT”

The next day we had the incredible opportunity to visit a family to have tea in their home in a town near the desert. They were so welcoming and hospitable. We tried on clothing that the women of the house made for sale at local markets and petted their baby goats. My most treasured souvenir from the trip is one of the robes they made.

The drive from the desert to Marrakesh is long, so on the way we stopped at the Todra Gorge then stayed at a charming hotel for the night. At the hotel I had possibly the best cheese omelet I have ever had. And more Moroccan wine.

The next morning, we went to Ait-Ben-Haddou, a UNESCO heritage site, which is a walled city called a ksar from the 17 th century.

It is sparsely inhabited these days but comes to life daily for markets of artists that sell their beautiful wares, such as carpets and painted artwork, to visitors.

The travel to Marrakesh continued, with breathtaking views of the Atlas Mountains and a highly anticipated stop at an women-run argan oil co-op where I met and fell in love with amlou, a spread made of roasted almonds, honey and argan oil.

It is like almond butter but better.

“IT WAS LIKE BEING ON A FAMILY ROAD TRIP WITH OUR FUN UNCLE MUSTAPHA”

Once in Marrakesh we had a couple of days and some free time, which was much appreciated after a few long days of cross-country travel. Not to say the travel was difficult, it was not. We were a small group and had a whole mini tour bus to ourselves.

The bus had air-conditioning and reclining seats, we took frequent tea and snack stops, and shared DJ duties.

Honestly, it was like being on a family road trip with our fun Uncle Mustapha. He was as much a part of the group as anyone else with his sense of humor and easygoing attitude.

In Marrakesh we stayed in a lovely, large riad that had its own hammam. Over the next couple of days we enjoyed the hammam, had a walking tour of the city, experienced a multi-day Gnaoua music festival, and made dinner at a local woman’s house.

Her preserved lemon mashed potatoes are life changing. Another night at a restaurant overlooking Jemaa el-Fnaa square, I finally got to eat a seafood pastilla, which I had been wanting to try the whole time, but it was not offered anywhere we stopped. 

“OVERALL, MARRAKESH HAD THE BEST FOOD”

Chicken pastilla is more common, but I don’t eat chicken thus the wait. It was worth the wait! Undoubtedly the best thing I ate the entire trip; it is a mixed seafood patty in this thin, crispy bread shell.

Not a great description, I know, but it was amazing. Savory, light and everything I wanted.

The only way it could have been better was if it had been served with Chef Layla’s preserved lemon mashed potatoes. Overall, Marrakesh had the best food. The riad had a nice rooftop restaurant where we spent many hours eating and, yup you guessed it, drinking Moroccan wine.

On our last night, we went to a different rooftop restaurant with unique and delicious international cuisine fusion style dishes.

Besides the food, my favorite part of Marrakesh started out as a disruption in the plans.

Our treasured guide was called away by a personal situation and he was replaced by another guide, Brahim.

Mustapha had become such an integral part of our group that we were sad to see him go and apprehensive about a new guide.

We had no reason to worry.

“MEETING AND SPEAKING WITH BRAHIM WAS SUCH A HIGHLIGHT OF THE TRIP”

Brahim stepped seamlessly into Mustapha’s role. He offered different perspectives into Moroccan life and Muslim culture, some of which still resonate deeply with me. Meeting and speaking with Brahim was such a highlight of the trip that I cannot believe we were even worried about it.

“AT EVERY OPPORTUNITY MOROCCO SURPRISED ME AND DELIGHTED ME, ESPECIALLY THE MOROCCAN PEOPLE”

I am not sure what I expected from Morocco, but it was nothing like I thought it would be. At every opportunity Morocco surprised and delighted me, especially the Moroccan people.

I cannot express how fortunate I feel to have been able to have real, in-depth conversations about the world, politics, Islam, religious tolerance and Moroccan history and culture with all our guides. 

Mustapha, Brahim, and Soufiane in Casablanca.

My conversations with them were enlightening and quite honestly changed my world view for the better.

I am grateful to Other Way Round for facilitating this experience. I would not change a single thing.